Kinabatangan River, Borneo - July 2009

Current Location

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S. Kinabatangan, Sabah, Malaysian Borneo


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30 August 2010

Asking for your support :)



In June 2011, we (BRINCC (Busang River Initiative for Nature Conservation and Communities)) will be heading into the northernmost hills of Central Kalimantan, Indonesia, Borneo. For 4 months, we will travel along the Busang River, surveying primates, small mammals, birds, butterflies and moths, reptiles and amphibians, as well as conducting work with communities in surrounding villages. I am the only Canadian among the 15 scientists on this trip and will be responsible for GIS and GPS mapping of the area.

We want to make the ecological impact of this expedition as small as possible, which means state-of-the-art equipment and minimal use of motorized boats. All the equipment will be used by local people after the expedition to continue monitoring biodiversity in the area or donated to conservation projects in Indonesian Borneo.

In order for this to be possible, our fund raising efforts will have three approaches:
1) each non-Indonesian expedition member will fund-raise for their own expenses,
2) applying for grants and
3) requesting corporate sponsorship.

Each team member is aiming to raise £1000 (about $1500 Canadian dollars) towards the expedition, and I am asking you to consider helping me reach this goal.

As much as I love being in Borneo, there is a greater purpose to what we will be doing as our knowledge will be shared by producing management plans identifying threats to the ecosystem and the local communities, DVD documentaries, blog entries and press releases, and training Indonesian students and conservation workers, to name a few. We will also be getting schools in Canada, Europe and the UK involved.

Borneo may seem far away to us, but many of the decisions we make as consumers has a definite impact on Borneo’s economy and environment. If we know more we may be able to make a positive difference. Borneo is a major producer of palm oil, a product which is used in many products we buy every day, such as a vegetable oil in foods (margarine, bread, chips, cereal, cookies, chocolate, chewing gum, etc.), and other products such as cosmetics, soaps, shampoos, and toothpaste (it makes these products lather!). The increase in demand cannot be met with the current number of oil palm plantations, but only by increasing the total area of plantations. This would require existing forests to be cut down, as land used for other plantations (rubber, cocoa) has become limited and expensive for oil palm conversions. A goal of this expedition is to identify this area as an important area of biodiversity and therefore protect it (and all of its wildlife, including proboscis monkeys!) from the encroaching oil palm plantations that are spreading all over the island.

Whether you are donating to BRINCC through the Canadian, American or UK office of the University of Oxford, you can receive a charitable donation receipt.

For all donations please send an email to BRINCC brinccborneo@googlemail.com stating the amount you have donated and that it is a donation towards "Danica's personal fundraising goal", so your donation can be directed properly.

Here is how you can support me:

1)Donations from UK or Canada please click here

Select “Emergency Fund” and “Donate by Credit Card”
Please complete all the fields and in the field “Subject Studied” please write “DONATE TO BRINCC WILDCRU”

Select “I would like the University of Oxford Development Trust Fund to reclaim tax on this donation and all donations I make on or after the date of this declaration until I notify you otherwise. I am a UK tax-payer and pay an amount of income tax and/or capital gains tax at least equal to the tax to be reclaimed on my donations.”
OR
Select “I am a Canadian tax payer and I would like the University to issue me with a tax receipt.”

2)Donations from USA please click here

In the section marked “It is my preference that” please state “other” and put BRINCC Expedition, WildCRU” in the space

3)Donate by post or from any other country

Please send a cheque to payable to “BRINCC Expedition” to the following address. Please indicate it is a donation towards Danica’s personal fundraising goal.

BRINCC Expedition
C/O Dr Susan Cheyne
Wildlife Conservation Research Unit (WildCRU), Department of Zoology, University of Oxford, The Recanati-Kaplan Centre, Tubney House, Abingdon Road, Tubney, Oxon, OX13 5QL, UK

MANY THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR GENEROSITY IN SUPPORTING MYSELF AND BRINCC :-)

Green The Film

From Green The Film
Finally was able to watch a film I had been meaning to watch since I first heard about it in June, called "Green The Film". I encourage you all to watch it. I know some people don't really realise the effect we are having on this earth, that things don't seem different at home, so we must be doing ok still, but I hope that this film will make you realise otherwise. Although some of the shots (or a lot of them) are shown, I am sure, to pull on our heart strings, it is still not an exaggeration. Oil Palm plantations can go as far as the eye can see, and then some, and there is no way that all that area that was once forest could be cleared without killing or removing animals from their home. So even though things might seem to be fine at our home, they aren't in their homes.

Please realise that so much of what we do in the comforts of our supermarkets and shops is directly influencing the forests of (in particular) Indonesia and Malaysia, the largest exporters of oil palm in the world.

The photo I've added is just a screen shot from the credits of the film - have a good look through the list and you will undoubtedly recognise many names.

And please watch the film - it is free to watch on the website http://www.greenthefilm.com/

24 August 2010

KL with a bang!

I arrived in Kuala Lumpur (Peninsular Malaysia) with a close call/hiccup with my luggage. The bags weren’t coming out so I decided to use the bathroom while I waited – I wasn’t in there for long, but by the time I came out, everyone had gone and all the bags had gone as well…except one. But not mine. But it was the exact same bag that I have and had a Canadian flag on it as well! So I sat and waited and the air asia staff looked up the details and took off, then arrived minutes later with a couple of frantic looking Canadians. They were just about to put my bag through the security scan as they were going on a connecting flight when they realised the bag they had was FILTHY and a slightly different Canadian flag. So luckily that worked out, but I was sorted of looking forward to shopping if my bag wasn’t returned! Lol!

I arrived at Carrie and Katie’s place after the scariest cab ride of my life and after getting slightly lost! They are just outside of KL, in a place called Petaling Jaya or PJ. I arrived just in time for pedicures with the girls, which was seriously in need. Spent Saturday catching up and eating yummy Katie food (eggplant wrapped around ricotta, mm!)!

Sunday we went off to FRIM (Forest Research Institute Malaysia) for a little nature walk. It is a really pretty walk up to and from the canopy and back down. The canopy walk itself is about 200ft above ground and is 150m long. There are some great views from up there, and get a nice glimpse of the city from a distance. After the canopy walk we went to go find a banana leaf meal and in another terrifying taxi ride, we actually did get into a car accident! Our taxi driver rear ended another car which ended up hitting the car in front of it. No one was hurt thankfully, but the taxi itself was MESSED up. So the lesson of the trip: if you want a cheap taxi ride, an accident will do the trick (not too serious though!).

After eating, we were all ready to just sit and relax after the whole taxi incident, so we went back to their place and went for a swim and laid in the sun for a bit. Once the sun went into hiding, Carrie, Liv and I went off to the Central Market in KL for a bit of shopping and searching for hippie pants (North American pants, not UK pants). The market reminded me of the stalls in Camden Market in London – lots of crafts and fabrics and jewellery! After perusing as many shops as we could, we headed over to the old Chinatown, there they have a huge street market, with knock-off everything you could think of.

Katie, Carrie and Liv had to go to work Monday so I wandered around the city on my own, which consisted of getting lost with almost every turn I took. But I did manage to find everything I was searching for, just taking the longest route there probably is. Besides going back to the markets we went to the night before so I could buy the things I should’ve bought then, I went and saw Merdeka Square, which is their independence square, where on 31 Aug in 1957 (I think that is the year), the union jack was taken down and the Malaysian flag was raised for the first time. They have their independence day celebrations in the square every year. I also went into a beautiful hindu temple, the oldest in KL. I was speaking to a Hindu man who lives in KL before I went in, who asked me where I am from and when I said Canada, I was expecting him to say “oh Toronto” like everyone does, but he said “oh Edmonton!” hahaha. Random! Anyways, this temple was amazing, and what was really cool was that there was some sort of ceremony or service going on when I got there so it was full of people and wonderful sounds (drums and horns) and wonderful smells (incense, fires). The men were lined up wearing towels around their waists, some with white paint on their bodies, and taking some sort of plant up these stairs into a shrine (which looked like a steam room to me). But once they went up the stairs you couldn’t see them anymore. The temple had just been re-done (is redone every 12 years for a special occasion), so the colours were so vibrant in there.

After the temple, I went over to the Petronas towers – the tallest twin towers in the world. And true to my style, I spent the first 30 minutes there accidently taking pictures of the wrong buildings. Lol! When I got out of the train station, there were two large buildings next to each other, but I didn’t understand why they are called the twin towers if they didn’t look anything alike and they didn’t seem to connect the way I had been told they did. I wasn’t too impressed, but they were tall and so I figured that was it. Ended up being the KLCC (the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre), and was a shopping mall inside. One of the buildings I was looking at was one of the twin towers, but the other was hiding behind it. So after I walked all over the mall on all floors trying to find a way up to the view point, I gave up and was about to head back when I saw a bunch of people around the bend, so I followed the crowd and lo and behold some actual twin towers!! However, since it had taken me so long to get there, the viewing platform was closed so I didn’t get to go up and have a look over the city which was too bad. I decided that I would call it quits after that and headed back to Katie and Carries for dinner. We went out for Sushi then back at theirs I made them each one of the bracelets I learned to make in Sulawesi.

KL is an interesting place - totally different than any of the cities that I have been to in Indonesia or Malaysia so far. At times I forgot I was in KL, as it really reminded me a lot of Vancouver. I think mostly because there are people from all over living there besides just Malaysians, whereas in the other cities it has been mainly only Malaysians or Indonesians. It didn’t feel as foreign as somewhere with a 15hour time difference from Vancouver should feel. Also, you could easily and comfortably get by in the city without having to speak bahasa Malaysia because everyone speaks English (although I am sure you wouldn’t get messed around with as much if you could speak Malaysian).

It was a short but sweet trip. It was so nice to catch up with them again and see what their new life is like over in Malaysia! Now it is time to see what Rich's life has been like the last 9 months! Back to Indonesia...

23 August 2010

The End of My Borneo Adventure….For Now

Two weeks on this river fly by like nothing at all. It is so easy for the days to disappear when it involves the lovely boat and funny monkeys and scary crocs! I feel like this isn’t my last time on the Kinabatangan because it feels more at home to me than most places have. I’ll just have to wait and see when the next time is but I am already looking forward to it!
The last couple days I spent doing a few different things I hadn’t done before! I spent half a day going around helping check camera traps (well….i didn’t help all that much, but I watched them check the cameras!). It was interesting to see the process, which surprisingly involves a lot of raking! The nicest trails I have seen are those for camera traps – all raked and clean from debris! Apparently a nice clean trail attracts animals (especially the cats of interest….and apparently MANY macaques) so it increases the chance of animals walking in front of the cameras. The macaques are so funny to see in the photos of camera traps and I don’t think I will stop giggling every time I see a picture of just the eyes of a macaque staring into the camera, so curious about what is going on that it’s face is basically pressed up against the camera. They also seem to time their matings just right so they are right in front of the camera for it. Camera trapping also involves a lot of sitting on a boat to go in between sites and therefore resulted in some pretty bad tan lines for me! But all in a days work!
Our last day we went for a last walk through the forest in hopes to see a snake, but the closest we got was a large millipede. But it is such a nice forest and SO easy compared to the one in La bundo bundo. I had forgotten that it can actually be enjoyable walking through the forest when you don’t have to worry about falling down a limestone cliff!
The afternoon we went to Gua Gomantong – a MASSIVE bat cave just about an hour and a bit away from the field site. The first thing you notice is the smell. It’s a smell that gets right in your head and seems to push out any other senses that are trying to express themselves. There must be millions of bats in that cave and so the amount of guano and ammonium is enough of a smell to hit you right in the face over and over again. BUT it is still an amazing place. There is a board walk set up which walks the inside perimeter of the cave, which I was very happy for, because the entire floor of the cave is covered in small mountains of guano and cockroaches. I don’t know if you guys have seen the planet earth caves episode but they filmed it in this spot, and had a camera run up the guano mountain. When you look quickly at the ground it just kind of seems shiny, but not anything special. But if you keep your eyes in one spot for a few seconds even, you will see the ground starting to move from all the cockroaches. You also have to watch your step on the boardwalk since the cockroaches are everywhere! And don’t even think about using the handle on the board walk to help yourself go up or down the ramps or you’ll get guano and cockroach allll over you! After going through the cave we sat outside and waited for dusk – and it was amazing. All the bats started streaming out of the cave, and it looked as though they were actually in a stream! They would flow out in a continuous stream and break off into small groups which look just like the bait balls fish go form when they are being attacked (although the bats going into this formation weren’t necessarily being attacked). But there were a few brahminy kites soaring around the entrance of the caves trying to snatch up whatever they could get! But kites don’t seem necessarily built for quick action strikes but it was still really cool to watch!
This cave is an important cave as it is harvested 3 times a year for the edible bird nests. So there were many people living outside the caves, and up on the mountain that work for the bird nest industry. Two of the guys came over and showed us the bird nests and told us a bit about them. There are two types of nests that are collected from the caves in the area (there are many, but only one accessible to visitors) – a black type and a white type. They are made from the birds basically up-chucking (I don’t know the proper word!) and so the nests are kind of gummy and rubbery. The black ones have more feathers in them, but the white ones are basically entirely this rubbery material and the bit that attaches to the wall had a bit of blood in it still. The white nests are more expensive than the black ones, but both are used for Chinese medicines and in soup. They were saying they would get about £400/1000kg of nests, and each time they harvested nests they are collecting about 3000kg worth of nests – so in a year they are collecting about 9000kg of these nests! They do it 3 times a year because the nests take about 3-4 months to be made, and they said that they wait until the chicks have hatched and have left the nest before they harvest them, which I hope is true, otherwise this harvesting would not be able to continue for too long.
We left the field site early Friday morning and headed back to Sandakan. Following tradition of last year, we ordered pizza from pizza hut and had it delivered to the hostel. We each had our own regular sized pizza and it was amazing!! I don’t seem to have a problem completely demolishing a pizza there, and not even feel disgustingly full after! Lol! Also, I found out about a roof top patio that the hostel has, so we ate up there and were able to listen to some beautiful music being played along the water. It was a great way to end the Bornean trip!
Now it is on to Kuala Lumpur for a couple days to visit some of my lovely ladies who are doing some great work there. I can’t wait to lay by the pool!

17 August 2010

Monkey Magic!

So apart from the elephants we saw on the first day, the last week and a half has been full of all sorts of creatures! Never a dull moment at and around the site. A couple days into the stay, I was heading back to the hostel for a nap (we had an early morning!!! Lol) and I heard all this noise outside, so I went back outside and there was a male orang-utan! Not a phalanged male, looked more sub-adult, but he was just wandering along from tree to tree with not a care in the world. It is so entertaining to watch them move because a lot of the time they will climb into a small-ish tree (relative to their size) and basically “ride the branch” – sitting on the tree until it bends enough to reach the next tree. And despite all the noise they make when they are moving, as soon as they stop moving they can instantly disappear. And again on Saturday there were 2 orangs (male and female) just outside the main building and mating! How exciting!!

There have also been plenty o’ crocodilia! Same as last year, not too many at the beginning, but the river is a lot lower now than it was when we arrived so there is a lot more beach for them to beach on! And to be honest I would much rather all the croc’s beach on the beaches so I know exactly where they are! The most that I have seen in a day this year has been 8, but that was counting 5 that we just saw the eye shine in the morning when it was still dark, and then 3 in the daylight but one of them was the largest croc I ever did see! First thought was that it was a tree, then that it was two crocs kind of laying in a row, but then realised it was one massive croc! I would say just under 5m (but I also over estimate quite a lot…).

Pigs and monitor lizards have also been plentiful, but are not playing as big of a role as they were last year. But I have to say, one of my favourite things to see is a monitor lizard running frantically. They just don’t seem built for it, and although they really can take off, they make such a ruckus and that their legs are too far out from their body. I love it and it makes me giggle every time, and then impersonate them! And the pigs are occasionally making their way through the site but have seen them more in the forest this year than out (although I am going into the forest more this year).

I have seen a giant squirrel which was fun! And I wish you all could hear the call of a giant squirrel, but basically just think of a laser gun firing repeatedly, and that is it! It’s amazing! The other squirrels which have made an appearance are all pretty neat as well: the pygmy squirrel which is just a couple of inches long is everywhere this year, and I’ve also seen a horse-tail squirrel which is apparently quite rare to see!

I have been spending most of my time this trip with the long tail macaques instead of the proboscis monkeys, mainly because they are less skittish and so it is easier for the students to practice their behaviour data collection methods on the macaques. Apart from forest follows (or attempted forest follows), we have been spending most late afternoons on the boat finding macaques and staying with them as long as they will let us! And we have been getting some great observations of them! The lack of social interaction from the macaques in Buton has certainly been made up for here. They have been so fun to watch! Each group we have found has at least one tiny baby (still black) but most groups will have around 3 or 4 that we can actually see (probably more) and a TON of juveniles and sub adults that just play around like crazy – falling out of trees, pushing their buddies out of trees, hanging off of each others’ tails, and rolling down hills. And they just climb all over everyone – there was one juvenile that kept walking on the heads of a bunch of adults that were sitting on a branch. So he just walked back and forth on top of their heads until they paid attention! There is also one group in particular we have been able to watch for a couple days and they always come to the river bank and drink out of the river. We may have seen it once or twice in other groups, but it is very common in this one among all the individuals!

I wish I knew the birds here as well – maybe one day I will actually remember what I saw for more than 5 minutes so I can look it up when I get back, and maybe actually learn my colours better because for some reason I just can’t seem to remember my colours when it comes to birds. How frustrating! So basically, unless it is a kingfisher, hornbill, white belly sea eagle or brahminy kite, I’m useless! Oh, or an egret! The only species I can guarantee to see on the boat is a great egret!

That is all for now! Actually going to the bat caves on Thursday which I am so exciting about – one of the big Borneo caves with the swift bird nests (that are popular for harvesting) and huge piles of guano! I can’t wait!

16 August 2010

Tidak hujan lagi!!!!!

It is dry in Sabah!!!! I can’t believe how different the weather is from just below the equator to just above. For the just over a week that I have been here, it has rained only 3 or 4 times, and they have been short rains (if during the day) or at night! So nothing really has needed to be cancelled due to rain which is such a wonderful thing!

My first day in Sabah (in the town called Sandakan) consisted of so much shopping! There is this mall in Sandakan which is 5 floors that has everything, so I had great fun buying t-shirts and new shoes to replace my wellies and tops that needed to be replaced after a hard time in La bundo bundo. And then snacks for the next 2 weeks and I somehow ended up with a kilo of rambutan and a kilo of mangis which was amazing! I haven’t had rambutan since panama and I’ve never had mangis but I’ve heard so much about it that I couldn’t wait, but then had to until I could figure out how I was meant to eat it – it was a bit of a mess! I also got a new watch and found some more tiger balm, which I have become addicted too!

The following morning we headed out to Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. We got there just as the feeding was beginning and there was even an orang walking on the boardwalk where all the people were. There are some amazing opportunites to see orangs up close there, but it is a weird experience - around 50 people of all shapes and sizes and ages are crowded around this platform and following around the orang (which is walking around on the platform) like a herd of sheep. Then, as if on que (which i guess they actually are), orangutans come from all corners onto this platform half way up a tree which is full of bananas. Something about primates eating bananas bugs me - i'm not sure if it is because it is the stereotypical thing that primates eat, which makes me automatically dislike it, but whatever it is, it bugs me. i have even see wild macaques eat bananas...i dunno. anyways, the orangs come and eat, seemingly posing for cameras for about 30 minutes to an hour. then the area is closed and we were forced to go! despite all that, i still do like the place, and i think it really makes you appreciate orangs once you actually get a chance to see them in the proper wild.

Back on the Kinabatangan river, i felt at home. i love this river. i think our saying from last years trip is very suiting: monkey magic. but not just monkeys, i love the birds too. unfortunately, the progress i was making with birding in sulawesi was false - turns out the only reason i was getting good at it was because the bird expert was walking next to me and telling me what everything was! lol! So out of the 10-15 species of bird i am seeing on the river, i usually can tell what 3 of them are. Back to monkeys: My first proboscis monkey sighting this year ended up being a red morph silver leaf monkey! i just blame it on being away for a year. but it was the longest and one of the best views i've gotten of a red morph so it was still a good thing!

Made it to the field site in good time, dropped our bags off and went searching for elephants!! Last year they left the area just days before us arriving and i was convinced they would do the same again this year. They had been hanging around and AT the site for the last 2 months and they were "slowly" moving on again a few days before we were arriving. but we drove and drove in the boat and could see the path of destruction from the elephants - basically just grass trampled going into and coming out of the river, so we could tell that we hadn't passed them yet, but we were getting pretty far from where they were last seen that we almost turned around. but then there they were - i counted 43 of them and we could hear more trumpeting in the forest behind. There were a couple of tiny little ones, less than a year old, the big adult male who apparently stays with the group all year long, not just when he is in musk, like most male elephants, and a bunch of younger males and females. They were so peaceful to watch - all flapping their ears and eating and splashing water. i definately prefer them to african elephants. maybe its their small size...

I'm going try to add more tomorrow about the rest of the time here - it is almost over though, just 4 more sleeps left!

PLEASE send me emails about what is going on in your life!!! I want to hear from you!!

Love, Danica

08 August 2010

The Final Days: Hello Missta (30 July – 4 August)

Last week in La bundo bundo flew by so fast. Maybe because it wasn’t a full week, but probably because it was minggu malas extended. I went out one day to do actual monkey-ing work, but after 8 hours of walking around up and down the limestone death hill, we finally found them at the bottom of the hill on their way back up, from where we came from. So that was a pain. And it actually ended up being one of the few days we had in this whole time where it didn’t rain at all, so we couldn’t blame it on the rain, or leave because of the rain.

I was then invited to join the overnight tree climbing/sleeping experience! It is just the same as the tree climbing I did with the crew before, but this time we head up at about 9pm and we spend the night 100ft up the tree in the hammock!! You still keep your harness on (but still quite scary I would imagine if you were a sleep walker), but take off your boots and helmet and attach them to the hammock. We set off from La bundo bundo about half 7 and on the way came across a reticulated python! It was a “small” one – about 3 m maybe, and not too thick around. However, it scurried off the road extremely quickly once we all jumped out of the van for a closer look! When we got to the tree, we had a little camp fire (or attempted one, which mainly consisted of pouring kerosene on the flames since the wood was all wet) and ate peanuts in attempt to try to dehydrate ourselves before heading up the tree and THEN had to pee. At around half 9 we were ready to climb and as soon as we put on our harnesses the rain began. And it did not stop. So we aborted mission and had to head back to La bundo. I was quite sad leaving but better the rain started when we were still on the ground rather than us already being up in the hammocks ready for bed.

I went for a final time to Kawelli, the village where the farm projects are done for the macaques, and did some GPS mapping of the farms there on the Sunday which turned out to be another beautiful day (except for the hour of rain in the middle of it!). We weren’t allowed on one of the farms any more for some reason, so weren’t able to GPS it, but Rudi, my guide, said he could do it and I never saw a better stealth mission than his. He didn’t go on their property, but walked around the outside of the fence to get the perimeter, but was so sneaky that I even kept losing his even though I was trying to watch him the whole time. I was meant to go along with Marc the following day to join the civet project but it ended up raining ALL night and was raining in the morning so I decided against it as I didn’t want to get my boots all wet before Wednesday and having to wear them all wet on the plane (Sorry marc!!). The day got eventually nicer but I ended up spending in the computer lab helping out with stats and gps stuff, when Christine, the Tarsier scientist, popped her head in and asked if I was still joining her, since they were meant to be leaving in 5 minutes. I had completely forgotten and to get down to my house from where we were and then back up would’ve been about 15 minutes. I only had my flip flops with me, but luckily I was able to find a pair of abandoned boots in the office that were mostly my size and threw those on. But I was wearing non-jungle clothes and didn’t have socks. Or water. Or a head torch – which is probably the most important thing if you are going out into the forest at night (but Tine had an extra one she nicely let me use). Once we got up to the tree, she said “ok stand here and watch to see if any come out of the holes in the tree” and I was just like “oh, it that one? And that one?” and saw 2 tarsiers within the first minute of being by the tree. I attribute it to the fact that I was wearing my “Nocturnal Primate Research Group” t-shirt, which seems to draw out the primate creatures of the night. They stuck around for about 25 minutes before heading off into the forest for the night.

My final day in La bundo bundo was low key – just computer stuff and an attempted bird walk that got rained out (surprise surprise!). However, there was a little staff party night that night which was really nice, getting a final hurrah before taking off – which included bintang for all, chicken for most and cake for the vegetarians!! (but we shared…hehe). However, but 11pm I figured I should probably go and pack, seeing as I was leaving at 0730am the following day!
My final adventure involved a motorbike and 2 heavy bags. I’m glad that adventure is over, but I have to admit, once I got over the terrifying bit of thinking I would fall off, I did quite enjoy it, but I would never want to go on a bike in a busier place than Bau Bau! And in line with Indonesian time, my flight leaving was over an hour late, but luckily I planned for that, so I made sure I had a couple hour wait between my flights.

Then I was in Malaysia! :)